Arpoador Ebb & Flow

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ArtRio

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ArtRio is happening right now in Rio: pop-up galleries and art from all over the place spilling over 200,000 square feet of waterfront real estate in Rio’s rapidly reurbanizing Port Zone. These were my favorite works in the order I saw them. Sam Francis – Blue Jade, 1982 Betania Samaia - Pão de Açúcar, 2014 A […]

Quiosque Culture

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Rio’s South Zone beaches, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, have been suffering years of gradual upgrades that painting over Rio’s vibrant beach culture with retro-futuristic tackiness. There are new police units, the Tourist Police, in attractive cut uniforms, protecting tourists from petty assaults, harassing barefoot young black children with numbing frequency, occasionally raiding the pot smoker’s […]

Carmelitas

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  Another Carnaval comes and goes. This is the Carmelitas bloco in Santa Teresa. Carmelitas has been paying homage to a nun’s convent in the Santa Teresa neighborhood since 1991. Legend has it, one of the nuns jumped over the convent wall during Carnaval and mixed with the revelers. Maybe even with these dudes! Or […]

Coffee Wars

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Every once in a while you find a place that tourists and gringos who do not identify as tourists both love. That place is the beloved Confeitaria Colombo, a stained glass rainbow of historic awesomeness, coffee and homemade pastries on a little alley in the heart of downtown Rio. So awesome that Starbucks decided to […]

Detour: Inhotim

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I’m 300 miles north of Rio in the largest gathering of palm trees in the world. I’m in the middle of nowhere surrounded by art. This is Inhotim. Cildo Meireles – Inmensa   Edgard de Souza – Untitled   Galeria Adriana Varejão Cristina Iglesias – Vegetation Room Dan Graham – Bisected triangle, Interior curve Matthew Barney - De Lama […]

Night Walk

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Nightfall in Ipanema. At the end of Ipanema beach There is a palm tree tunnel. At the end of the tunnel, the cars disappear and it’s all boardwalk and beach. Victor is charming passing ladies into buying him pizza. He wants you to see his skateboard. This is the end of Ipanema. Where the boardwalk […]

One Square Block

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One square block of street art in the Lagoa district. Start at Rua Batista de Costa and take a deep breath. It’s going to be a while till we come up for air. I love how some people still don’t think graffiti is art. Partial credits. All photos in this post were taken here on […]

The Organ Forest

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On the fifth day of dengue the fever dropped On the eighth day I itched till I cried On the twelfth day I rested in the Organ Forest. I took the bus north a while to Teresopolis Past the pools Past the mannequins in the plaza Love and chocolate Love and chocolate and love I stayed […]

Barra Surf

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I stay up late, wake up at eight. Time for some coffee and it’s time to go to last day of the Billabong Rio Pro. Head to Ipanema Beach and head south. Past the cones Past the cars Past the path to the Sheraton Past the bike rack at Vidigal. Take your friends Take your […]