Pacification

pacificacao_Baltar-013

This photo-essay by documentarian Luiz Baltar was first published on RioOnWatch.org and is republished with permission. I have never accepted the term “pacification,” adopted as a slogan by the government and repeated all over the media. By consensus, peace is a desired state of mind and something that can be achieved individually or collectively. It […]

Carmelitas

jruv_P1020582_2

  Another Carnaval comes and goes. This is the Carmelitas bloco in Santa Teresa. Carmelitas has been paying homage to a nun’s convent in the Santa Teresa neighborhood since 1991. Legend has it, one of the nuns jumped over the convent wall during Carnaval and mixed with the revelers. Maybe even with these dudes! Or […]

Coffee Wars

jruv_IMG_0998

Every once in a while you find a place that tourists and gringos who do not identify as tourists both love. That place is the beloved Confeitaria Colombo, a stained glass rainbow of historic awesomeness, coffee and homemade pastries on a little alley in the heart of downtown Rio. So awesome that Starbucks decided to […]

Detour: Inhotim

jruv_P1090365_2

I’m 300 miles north of Rio in the largest gathering of palm trees in the world. I’m in the middle of nowhere surrounded by art. This is Inhotim. Cildo Meireles – Inmensa   Edgard de Souza – Untitled   Galeria Adriana Varejão Cristina Iglesias – Vegetation Room Dan Graham – Bisected triangle, Interior curve Matthew Barney - De Lama […]

Bieber’s Brothel Visit

jruv_centaurus2

Justin Bieber visited a brothel this weekend in Rio de Janeiro, and if anyone out there has doubts as to whether the place he went to was actually a brothel, I can confirm it for you. Justin Bieber went to a brothel. But not just any brothel. Centaurus, two blocks from the sand in Ipanema Beach […]

Brazil’s #1 Puta

jruv_IMG_2964_660

Gabriela Leite 04/22/1951 – 10/10/2013 Gabriela inaugurated a way of being and doing politics. Born into a middle class family in São Paulo, she left her college studies in 1970s to work in prostitution. In the late 1970s, she organized the first protests against the frequent human rights abuses she witnessed among her colleagues. Gabriela […]

Vai Lacraia

jruv_lacraia 2

This is a lacraia, and this bug will fuck you up. I saw four military police with machine guns stomping it to death on the sidewalk in Ipanema. They paused for a photo. Surreal. From a study of lacraia bite victims in Sao Paulo in the 1990′s: “The most frequent clinical manifestations were erythema, edema, […]

Rio’s First Favela

jruv_providencia4

Providência is the oldest favela in Rio, part of the port area known as “Little Africa” where over a million slaves were sold in the 1800s. Originally settled by returning soldiers in 1897, Providência’s population grew with the intake of freed slaves over the next few decades – slavery was officially abolished in 1888. This […]

Separated Lovers

jruv_JB3

For me, the magic center of Rio de Janeiro is its Botanical Garden. But I should denounce the fact that this magical center harbors a tragic episode: the separation of two lovers. The lovers are still in the garden, the nymph Eco and Narciso But further from each other than when they were alive. The […]

Night Walk

jruv_P1080854_2

Nightfall in Ipanema. At the end of Ipanema beach There is a palm tree tunnel. At the end of the tunnel, the cars disappear and it’s all boardwalk and beach. Victor is charming passing ladies into buying him pizza. He wants you to see his skateboard. This is the end of Ipanema. Where the boardwalk […]