Coffee Wars


Every once in a while you find a place that tourists and gringos who do not identify as tourists both love. That place is the beloved Confeitaria Colombo, a stained glass rainbow of historic awesomeness, coffee and homemade pastries on a little alley in the heart of downtown Rio. So awesome that Starbucks decided to […]



“Pacified, the German Complex Will Now Have Sightseeing Tours.” Named in reference to a Polish immigrant who settled in the area almost a hundred years ago and was nicknamed “the German” by locals, Rio’s Complexo de Alemão – or German Complex  – made local and international headlines in 2012 for two seemingly unrelated reasons: a […]

Hotel Paris

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PARIS IN LIMBO: French hotelier François-Xavier Dussol invites me to capture the final days of abandon at the Hotel Paris before it breathes new life as downtown Rio’s first 5-star hotel. The wreckage is beautiful. We enter an unmarked door next to a mattress store bathed in limelight. A sign behind the reception reads, “It is prohibited to walk the […]

Barra Surf


I stay up late, wake up at eight. Time for some coffee and it’s time to go to last day of the Billabong Rio Pro. Head to Ipanema Beach and head south. Past the cones Past the cars Past the path to the Sheraton Past the bike rack at Vidigal. Take your friends Take your […]

Piscinão de Ramos


It rained all night but I woke up bright. Let’s go to Piscinão. Take Avenida Brasil to Pasarela #13. Welcome to the Piscinão. 2 acres of artificial beach on the edge of Guanabara Bay. If the South Zone is far away. It’s Saturday, and nobody’s here. Take a dip. Take a dive. Get some fried corvina […]



Pacified, gentrified, superbly located Vidigal. The “UPP” pacification branding in Vidigal plaza means it’s safe for tourists. Drive a mile down the coast from swanky Leblon Beach, just past a strip of sex motels and the Sheraton Hotel, and you’re standing at the entrance to Vidigal. Locals line up to catch a ride up the […]



“It’s a pleasure to be in Prazeres” – damn straight. Head up the mountain towards Christ the Redeemer, past Santa Teresa, take a right when you see this guy and you are in a place called Prazeres. Prazeres means “pleasures” in Portuguese. Street art everywhere. This smurf fresco represents Rio’s soccer rivalry in four parts. Fluminense […]



 Sundays in Ipanema, the city turns the southbound lanes into a pedestrian playground. More RioChromatic: The super-chill neighborhood at the north end of Copacabana is Leme. Click to get into it.

The Color House


CASA COR IS OUT OF CONTRO. 80 of Rio’s hottest architects descend on an abandoned hotel spa on Flamengo Beach and make magic. I photographed Casa Cor during opening week. Here are my favorite living spaces. LOUNGE DO HOTEL (above) by Gisele Taranto. LIVING (below) by Erick Figueira de Melo.   LOFT + RIO by Luiz Fernando Grabowsky. APARTAMENTO […]

Leme Chill


The super-chill neighborhood at the north end of Copacabana is Leme. Palm trees at Posto 1. Lifeguards on the lookout. Marcelo’s barraca takes credit cards. Wow! Breezy 3pm. Showers with a view. At the end of Leme, keep going. Down the path to sea. Peace.   >> Original photography by @jruv. Homenagem a Ale.